California Ag Network

Tag: Historic

  • How California Became a Food and Wine Lover’s Dream

    Oakland, Calif., (April 9, 2018) – If you’ve ever taken a drive through California’s picturesque vineyards and pastoral farms, you know it’s impossible to imagine the Golden State without them. But California wouldn’t have become a dream destination for foodies and oenophiles without research from the University of California.

    Today, California rivals France, Italy and Spain as a global wine producer, contributing billions of dollars each year to the economy. California also produces a majority of the nation’s fruits, vegetables and nuts, and a large portion of its livestock and dairy, with yearly production valued at $45 billion.

    That wasn’t always the case. In 1860, New York was America’s top dairy state, Ohio led the nation in winemaking and California trailed 27 states with its farm value of less than $50 million.

    California’s rise in agriculture, including its reputation for producing world-class wine, has gone hand in hand with the work of researchers and scientists at the University of California.

    In the late 1800s, UC soil scientists led the foundational research that showed farmers how to remove salts from the alkali soils in the Central Valley, transforming barren land into one of the the world’s most productive farming regions. UC researchers also helped establish California’s wine industry, then brought it back from the brink after prohibition nearly destroyed it.

    Its partnership with farmers, vintners and ranchers is just as strong today, with cooperative extension offices in every county in the state.

    A new industry takes root – UC launched its Department of Viticulture and Enology in 1880, after being directed by the state legislature to help California develop its nascent wine industry. UC agriculture professor Eugene Hilgard, director of the first State Agricultural Experiment Station, led the charge.

    … California can hardly fail to become one of the foremost grape-growing countries of the world, since it possesses all the natural advantages.

    EUGENE HILGARD, UC COLLEGE OF AGRICULTURE, SUPPLEMENT NO. 1 TO THE REPORT OF THE BOARD OF REGENTS, 1890.

    He was convinced that the California climate made it ideal for winemaking, and thought that with the right techniques, the state could move beyond the “faulty wines” being currently produced to create something truly worth drinking.

    While the Mediterranean weather in California was perfect for growing grapes, on the ground there was confusion about varietals, crude and insufficient fermentation processes and an infestation of the root louse, phylloxera.

    Hilgard began studying California’s soils and developing phylloxera-resistant plants at the university’s farm at Davis. By 1919, California’s young wine industry was beginning to flourish when Prohibition brought things to a screeching halt.

    Spraying vineyards

    Hundreds of wineries went out of business. Farmers tore out their vineyards and planted fruit trees. UC’s enology program ended, too, but its work on grape growing and fruit production continued. By the time Prohibition ended in 1933, UC was an established authority on grape growing in California, and it stepped in to help the wine industry recover.

    UC Davis launched its Department of Viticulture and Enology in 1935, and hired plant physiologist Maynard Amerine. Over the coming decades, Amerine and his colleagues developed detailed information about which wine-making grapes would grow best in which climates. Their 1944 study on grape zones gave detailed information about where to plant grapes for different types of wine, such as chardonnay or cabernet.

    UC Davis wine cellar

    That discovery recharged the wine business in California, and was the foundation of the appellation system that is still used to this day. Tailoring the varietals to California’s microclimates revolutionized grape growing in California, leading to better harvests, better fruit and ultimately, better wine.

    UC researchers haven’t just helped produce wine — they’ll also help you drink it. At least that was the goal of UC Davis professor of viticulture and enology Ann Noble, who in 1984 grew tired of hearing people describe wine with abstract and highly subjective terms like “harmonious.”

    Her wine wheel, which you can download here, is designed to help consumers pin down the aromas they like with increasingly specific language. Do you like your wine “woody”? If so, is it “burned” or “resinous”? Does it have hints of “tobacco” or “cedar”? Noble’s wheel spread like wildfire and has now been translated into eight languages for the connoisseur’s delight.

    From barren land to the world’s breadbasket – UC research has helped to grow more than just grapes. Through the Cooperative Extension and in-depth research by its campuses, UC has worked with California farmers in almost every aspect of food production, from developing new crop varieties to fighting pests to determining the most efficient ways to irrigate and conserve water.

    UC’s partnership with farmers and growers stretches all the way back to Eugene Hilgard, the legendary 1880s soil scientist. He led much of the foundational research that showed farmers how to remove salts from the alkali soils in the Central Valley, turning what was once barren land into one of the world’s most productive farming regions.

    In the early 1900s, the university deepened its agricultural research by establishing the University Farm (which would become UC Davis) and the Citrus Experiment Station (which would become UC Riverside).

    UC Riverside Citrus Experiment station

    Over the years, these two campuses have become internationally renowned for their agricultural expertise. UC Davis developed nearly half of the world’s strawberry cultivars, for example, while Riverside and the division of Agriculture and Natural Resources is responsible for producing 40 new citrus varieties.

    UC also branched out into the counties under the leadership of B.H. Crocheron, who joined UC in 1913 and directed the UC Agricultural Extension Service from 1919-48. Buoyed by the Smith-Lever Act that created Cooperative Extension, Crocheron developed a network of farm advisors, who worked to get important research-based knowledge from campuses to the community. As Crocheron said, the farm advisor’s work “is on the farms and among the people.”

    UC research continues to evolve with the agricultural needs of the state. Today, UC researchers are focused on addressing the challenge of climate change by building sustainable local and regional food systems, a resilient water future and integrated pest management systems to ensure a prosperous future.

  • Tunzi Family: 119 Years of Farming in Roblar

    Santa Rosa, Calif., (January 18, 2018) – Six generations of the Tunzi family have grown up in Southern Sonoma County. Many of the six generations have two things in common: raising cattle and attending the small Dunham School in Roblar. The Tunzi family immigrated to America from Switzerland in 1882. Natale Tunzi, grandfather of the current family patriarch Jim, first lived in Lakeville before moving to Two Rock, and met his wife Isolena in Petaluma.

    Six generations of the Tunzi family have grown up in Southern Sonoma County. Many of the six generations have two things in common: raising cattle and attending the small Dunham School in Roblar. The Tunzi family immigrated to America from Switzerland in 1882.

    Natale and Isolena had three children and purchased a ranch in Roblar in 1898. They bought the ranch from a local doctor who owned a lot of property in the area. They built the first house on the property, which the family still lives in today, in 1906 and built their original barn around the same time.

    The Tunzi family had a small dairy and milked around 60 cows by hand. At the height of the family’s dairy, they had around 100 head of cattle. They built a grade A barn in 1937 and were one of the first families to have a milking machine in the county. At the time it was built, the barn had state of the art facilities.

    Before building this barn, the family packed the milk 100 feet to a separate room to separate the milk from the cream. They sold the cream to the Petaluma Coop Creamery in cans. The leftover milk was mixed with kale the family planted and used to feed their chickens.

    The family had a lot of chickens at the same time they were raising dairy cattle. They had multiple chicken and brooder houses as well as their own hatchery as part of their operation. The family said they made more money on eggs than milk at that time.

    In addition to raising cattle and chickens, the family grew hay on 110 acres in Roblar as well as at Hamilton Air Force Base during World War II. The family recalls hearing stories of cutting hay while bombers were taking off and landing at the base.

    The family raised dairy cattle and utilized their grade A barn until the late 50’s when they retired from the dairy business. Jim said milking cows was a seven day a week job and joked that the family decided they liked to deer hunt and didn’t want to be tied down. They bought a ranch in Geyserville, phased out milking and began raising beef cattle. Jim and his brother were not farming full time and were partners in their excavating business for 40 years.

    Today, the Tunzi family is still raising cattle on the same ranch in Roblar. The family has 342 acres split into three parcels, although the ranch was more than 500 at one point. Jim lived on the ranch with his wife Joan, who keeps track of their family history. They own their cattle in conjunction with Fred, a member of the fourth generation who didn’t grow up on the ranch but later became involved with the cattle.

    Over the years, the family has raised multiple different breeds of cattle including Herefords, Simmental, Brangus, Charolais and currently have Angus. They peaked at 100 head of beef cattle, but now have about 80 cattle on the property.

    Ten of these are Limousin cattle part of a small herd Robby, Jim’s grandson, is raising. Robby said his herd started when his uncle gave him a heifer when he was five. At the time, he was in kindergarten and from that bottle calf he raised, bred and built his herd off of. He bought a few head along the way and showed them at the fair which helped pay for college.
    With his cattle project, Robby won the carcass contest one year at the fair, an accomplishment he views as a better achievement than winning the show. He was also the recipient of the Farm Bureau Foundation of Sonoma County’s Gold Cup his last year showing.

    Robby is currently attending Oklahoma State University, majoring in Ag Business and Economics. After graduation, he has plans to come back to Sonoma County and keep the ranch going. While he doesn’t think the ranch is large enough to build a career on, he knows it will definitely be a part of his life going forward.
    Permission for use is granted, however, credit must be made to the author and Sonoma County Farm Bureau when reprinting this item.

  • Crane Family: 165 Years of Farming in Santa Rosa

    Santa Rosa, Calif., (December 1, 2017) – Jennifer Crane is part of the sixth generation farming on family property in Santa Rosa. Many know the family’s historic barn that they drive by on Petaluma Hill Road where they can purchase Crane Melons at the end of the summer and shop for Christmas gifts in the winter.

    Jennifer Crane, her parents Cindy and Richard Crane and her husband Lucas Jones. Photo by Janice Yriberry courtesy of the Crane Family.

    Jennifer’s great-great-great-grandfather Richard Crane came to California in 1849 as a gold miner before settling on the family’s property in 1852. Their iconic barn was built 16 years later out of redwood and the property was home to a prune orchard. Consistent with the times, the family was very diversified, raising livestock and growing hay and grain.

    Richard’s son Oliver Crane started farming the melons in the 1920’s looking for one that would grow in their clay soil. He developed the Crane Melon by crossing multiple varieties including several heirloom varieties that were common back then.

    The Crane Melon has been grown on the family property for nearly 100 years and known by locals for its flavor and quality. Melons can only be purchased on the family’s property when they’re in season (September and October) and their melons are always selling out.

    The Cranes see many people who can go to the supermarket and get whatever produce want at any time of the year, but they said they always encourage everyone to eat seasonally. They work with local RCDs to bring school kids to their ranch, teaching them the concept of eating seasonally and where their food comes from.

    The Crane Melon Barn was built from redwood in 1868. Photo by Rachel LaFranchi.

    Like they were in the 1800’s, the family has remained diversified. The melons only grow on approximately 30 of their 142 acres. Eleven acres were planted with Pinot Noir in 2002, and the family still grows hay. They also grow yellow watermelons.

    Jennifer said the property’s soil influences both the grapes and melons, and the family feels their dry farming practices help bring out the flavors. When they planted the vineyard 15 years ago, Jennifer said they enjoyed learning about the concept of terroir. She said they see terroir through both the grapes and the melons.

    As for the future of the property, the family has two easements with the Open Space District so the property can’t be developed. The Cranes said it’s nice to know that their land is protected and it will remain in the state it is now forever.

    “We’re proud of the product we produce, and there’s nothing better than seeing the customers that have been coming here for years,” said Jennifer. “At the end of the day, we all just enjoy what we do.”

    For the last thirty years, the Cranes have also held a seasonal Christmas market in their barn for the holidays. They have gifts ranging from antiques to local food items, and the family says there is something for everyone. The Crane Melon Barn located at 4935 Petaluma Hill Road in Santa Rosa is open for the 2017 holiday season starting November 24. It is open 10 a.m. – 5 p.m. Friday, Saturday and Sunday through December 17th.

  • Heidrun Meadery: Marin County’s Honey Wine

    Point Reyes Station, Calif., (September 6, 2017) – Gordon Hull used to be a geologist. It was the mid-90’s, and he was working for a government agency in Seattle. Hull had an affinity for beer and his home brewing hobby quickly turned into a passion. He applied for an apprenticeship with the American Brewer’s Guild, and took a 10 week leave of absence to better his home brew skills.

    Gordon Hull, founder of Heidrun Meadery.

    At the end of the course, Hull was surprised to get an offer to become a professional brewer. He quit his job as a geologist and moved to Humboldt to work for a commercial brewery. Hull realized he had an entrepreneurial spirit and was interested in starting his own business, but at the time there were breweries popping up all over and the competitive market made the timing wrong.

    “At the time I was considering all of this, I happened to be experimenting with fermenting honey,” said Hull. “I’d tasted a number of traditional meads and they didn’t really appeal to me. I’ve always thought honey is such a beautiful substance; there should be a wine that reflects the character of the honey better than what I was tasting in medieval style meads.

    “Because I don’t care much for sweet wines, I decided I would try and make a honey wine that’s not sweet. Because I like beer, I thought I’d put bubbles in it and make it sparkling. I produced a batch of mead this way, and was surprised and delighted by the outcome. It was quite refreshing and delicious, and I would drink it myself. If I was interested in it, I thought others might be.”

    Hull started experimenting with his recipe and developing it more. He found if he used honey from different sources, he would get a different flavor of wine. For instance, a mead produced from orange blossom nectar produced a different flavor than if he used sage honey. Hull was fascinated by the fact that honey varieties are like grape varietals. Hull said that if he fermented out all the sugar in the honey, he would end up with a distinct character and found there was a very broad spectrum of flavors just like grape varietals.

    “That excited me, maybe even more than making beer. There are so many people out there making great beer, I thought maybe I should try the path less traveled and consider opening a meadery.”

    Hull spent the next two years developing a recipe, business plan and finding a location. He opened his meadery in Arcata in 1997 and produced his first batch in 1998. He described Heidrun Meadery, named after Norse mythology, as a one man show for 15 years. Hull had been making deliveries to San Francisco for more than 10 years and was tired of the commute, and coupled with getting married, he realized he was outgrowing the facility.

    Hull said he also saw a need to develop the business further – there was more to it than just producing mead. “If I wanted to encompass everything that honey wine is about,” said Hull, “I needed to start a beekeeping operation – just like winemakers want to grow their own grapes. If I was going to start a beekeeping operation, I should also grow my own plants that the bees feed off of in order to produce honey. By doing so, I would be encapsulating the entire ecology of meadmaking in one place.”

    Hull started looking for farms, something that could encompass both his business and his growing family. Hull and his wife Jeffra currently have two children Matilda, 9, and Penelope, 6.

    Hull began looking south of Arcata where honeybees prefer the climate and the habitat. He found a farm in Marin County in Pt. Reyes Station. The farm was previously a dairy and had all the existing structures they would need. It was located close to their primary market in San Francisco to help facilitate distribution as well as welcome customers. It’s location along the Highway 1 corridor already offered a flow of visitors and Hull said his business fit into the community well. His wines pair well with many other farm products from the area, particularly cheese and oysters.

    While the farm provides the perfect opportunity for customers to taste mead, it also allows them to see the flowers that feed the bees who are producing the honey which is making the mead. Visitors can see the whole ecological cycle in one place.

    The four years after they purchased the property were spent getting permits and making minor changes to the infrastructure to better accommodate their business. Following this, they opened their doors, tentatively at first, to the public in 2011.

    Former Dairy now used as meadery.

    Heidrun Meadery now employs five people including Jordan Uth, a horticulturalist who manages all the farming aspects of the property and the greenhouse. She also cultivates flowers to sell to local floral shops, restaurants and weddings.

    Heidrun’s sales director, Carly Sheriff, manages mead sales as well as the tasting room and its two staff members. Jay Uth, Jordan’s husband, holds a full time cellar position and is responsible for bottling and packaging the mead.

    The company contracts two beekeepers who manage over 100 colonies for Hull, one dozen of which are on the farm. They have eight different apiaries within a 30 mile radius of the farm.

    Hull is experimenting with micro-terroir of the different apiaries. He’s currently made mead from two spots, but plans to make more in the upcoming year. He has faced several beekeeping challenges as he set up his business but said he’s overcome most of them and feels confident that he’ll be able to make more varieties of mead from his own bees.

    Hull still serves as the company’s meadmaker and is currently making six varietals, sourcing honey from all around the country. In the past he’s purchased honey from Oregon, Arizona and Hawaii to make several distinct flavors.

    Honey comprises about 1/5 of every bottle, with Hull using a 1:4 ratio of honey to water. The mead process starts with melting the honey for one week at 105°F. The specific temperature is necessary to keep the honey from getting too hot which can volatilize the flavors.

    Hull describes his mead process as a hybrid between beer brewing and champagne production.

    The brewing part of the process comes first when the honey is blended with water. It’s boiled for 15 minutes to sanitize, but also so it doesn’t have to be filtered later in the process.

    The mixture is then transferred to fermentation tanks where yeast is added and primary fermentation occurs for one week.

    The mead then rests for one month until it is clarified sufficiently to bottle. It’s bottled in wine bottles with beer tops that don’t allow the CO2 to escape which gives it a champagne pop. The mead sits for two months while it clarifies at which point it is ready to drink with the exception of the sediment that has to be removed.

    At this point, the bottles are placed in a riddling rack for two weeks and turned every day. Hull has recently invested in a large machine to mechanize and speed up this process. They are then placed in cold glycol which freezes the sediment that is easily popped out by pressure when the cap is removed.

    The bottle is then fitted with a cork and hood, washed, labeled, foiled and cased.

    The mead is distributed around the Bay Area, including many Whole Foods locations. Hull said changing people’s buying habits for wine isn’t an easy task, especially with a product that isn’t well known. However, Hull said that if people can visit the farm, have the experience and taste the mead, he’s confident he can change their choices.

    Hull said many people who have tried mead in the past have not liked it, and he understands their suspicion. Yet, he emphasizes that his meads are a departure from traditional meads – they are light, dry and refreshing. As far as he knows, he’s the only producer of naturally sparkling mead in the world.

    Heidrun Meadery produces about 3,000 cases per year, and they always sell out. He plans to increase that 20% over the coming year.

    Hull said developing a business has taken a lot of resources, and he is concentrating on staying a family run business and focusing on the customer experience. His primary objective always has been and still is to make the best possible mead.

    The farm’s visitors are often seasonal, with the majority of visitors coming during the summer months. The farm is kid friendly, and Hull said they welcome families. It’s a place where both adults and children can come to have fun.

    “I feel very good about the connection we have to botany and apiculture. We have a lot to teach visitors, but it also helps us to help people understand. Most people understand where honey comes from, but if they can connect the bee with mead, we’re doing our job,” said Hull.

    For more information and tasting room hours visit heidrunmeadery.com

    Article and Photos By Rachel LaFranchi – Courtesy of Sonoma County Farm Bureau